Corum: Historical City between the Central Anatolian Plateau and the Black Sea Provinces of Turkey

The northern Anatolian province of Corum is a must-visit for those interested in the history of the Bronze Age Hittite Civilisations. Located in the interior of the northern Anatolian Plateau, the province of Corum is home to numerous key Hittite archaeological excavation sites. In addition to the UNESCO inscribed Hittite ruins at the former Hittite capital of Hattusas (present-day Bogazkale), which is about an hour's drive west of Corum, other notable Hittites sites worthy of a visit include Alacahoyuk (about 40 minutes' drive southwest of Corum, near the town of Alaca) and Sapinuva (about an hour's drive south of Corum, near the village of Ortakoy).

Although each of the Hittite excavation sites in the province has a museum of its own displaying artefacts recovered by archaeologists from the nearby site, no Hittite enthusiasts should miss out on a visit to the Corum Museum, housed in a beautiful turn-of-the-century building with distinctive 19th-century Anatolian Neo-Classical architectural style. The building, built in 1914, began its life as a hospital and subsequently served as Corum's School of Medicine, School of Art, Machinery Academy, and Ataturk High School, before being renovated and turn into a state-funded archaeological museum in 2003 with an extensive collection of Hittite artefacts, models of excavation finds and other relevant items on display.
 

Hittite Museum aside, the city centre of Corum also has several interesting buildings that merit a visit. To a certain extent, the style of architecture in Corum reminds me of the Turkish Nationalist-era public buildings visible in large quantity in both Kastamonu and Tokat, all of which are provinces of Turkey's northern Anatolian-Black Sea region. The relatively high altitudes of these three provinces, as well as their geographical proximity to one another, probably forged a fairly similar architectural and cultural heritage in one way or the other. The soil and climates of Corum, like the neighbouring province of Amasya (famous for the indigenous Anatolian apple cultivar known as Amasya), is also suitable for the cultivation of seasonal fruits that are best grown at certain altitudes, such as apples, pears, cherry, peach etc.  

Molivos: The Crown Princess of the Aegean Sea

When I was in Mytilini for the very first time in the summer of 2007, someone I met in the town told me no visit to the island of Lesvos is complete without a visit to the village of Molivos, located on the northern side of the island. So I took a bus from the bus station in the centre of Mytilini to find out what is so special about this village. 

As soon as I got off the bus stop outside the entrance to the village, I was dumbstruck by the beauty of this village. The entire old town is out of bound to traffics after mid-day, and the traditional stone houses lined the slopes of the hillside, crowned with an impressive castle on the top of the hill. There is no high-rise buildings, no concrete eye-sore, as strict building and planning regulations ensure that all houses must be built or renovated in line with the guidelines laid out by the town council in order to preserve the uniformity of the appearance of buildings in Molivos.

It is this adherence to uniformity in outlook that gives Molivos its picture-perfect image. As soon as you enter the old town, walk around its cobblestone streets and narrow lanes, it is like a trip back to the early 20th century, when cars and aluminum door frames still did not become an integrated part of daily life. The houses are very well preserved by all standards, and the quiet, gentle atmosphere reminds me of some of those beautiful hill villages in France's Provence and Languedoc regions.

Summer Night in Petra: Ouzo on the Beach and Party on the Street

Summer nights in Petra are something for those who like to hang out late but who are too sensitive or uptight for loud disco music or crazy drunken young men yelling in the streets. Compared to other famous summer night beach destinations in the Mediterranean, night life in Petra is actually very much on the sane side, much more subdue and 'normal'  than those on other Greek holiday islands or the Balearic Islands popular with younger people.

Perhaps this 'classier' style of night life in Petra has something to do with the fact that the island of Lesvos itself is after all, a fairly non-typical, upmarket holiday destination, and those who seek out this island are mostly the more discerning type of tourists who come here not because of cheap booze and party opportunities, but are in search of a truly relaxing and rewarding scenic corner in Greece where they can enjoy genuine Greek cuisines and Greek hospitality in one of the most beautiful places in the Mediterranean. Most of the holidaymakers I come across on Lesvos are not the 'loud type', but are mostly older people or professionals who do not mind spending more for a peaceful and fulfilling holiday experience in a small coastal Greek village. Quite a few of them choose Lesvos because they are looking for a place slightly out of the beaten track.

Miletus: City of Hippodamus, Thales, and Isidorus

Of all the twelve cities in the ancient region of Ionia, Miletus is probably the most famous and the wealthiest of them all, given the presence of a series of trading outposts and colonies on the Black Sea coast founded by settler-colonists from Miletus, which provided a steady source of income for the mother city back home.

In fact, the number of towns and cities along the entire Black Sea coast which trace their origins back to trading colonies founded by settlers from Miletus are so numerous, it sometimes seems impossible not to run into a place on the Black Sea that is not founded by someone from Miletus. Amongst the notable colonial offsprings of Miletus the Mother City on the Meander River are Samsun, Sinop and Trabzon in Turkey; Sozopol and Varna in Bulgaria; Constanta in Romania, as well as several towns in present-day Georgia, and virtually the entire stretch of coast along the northern shore of the Black Sea all the way to Crimea in present-day Ukraine. With so many possessions and colonies providing vital financial support to Miletus the Mother City back in Ionia, little wonder that the city was the most affluent of the twelve Greek Ionian cities.

Petra during the Day: Hilltop Monastery, Sandy Beaches, and Sweet Dolce Vita in Northern Aegean

Petra is a beautiful seaside village turned upmarket holiday resort on the northern shore of the attractive Greek Aegean island of Lesvos. The village gets its name 'Petra' (meaning 'rock') from the huge rock that is found in the centre of the village, on which the 18th century church of Panagia Glykofiloussa still stands.   

Söğüt: Saranda, Cherry Blossom, and a Harbour with the View

Bozburun Peninsula is indeed a place full of untapped hidden gems of scenic corners, marvellous seaviews, and peaceful fishing villages picturesque enough to be the backdrop of any romantic love films. After the amazingly beautiful ruins of Amos and the stunning seas of Hisaronu, Orhaniye and Bozburun, I arrived at another unknown little paradise by the name of Söğüt.
 

Tucked away right at the very end of the Bozburun Peninsula, Söğüt is just a mere 6km away east of Bozburun, but due to the absence of public transportation between these two villages, those who want to visit these two places on the same day have to do it either with their own car, or use a taxi or even hitch a hike. Otherise, be prepared to head all the way back to Marmaris and change onto another minibus, as the route used by minibuses from Marmaris to Bozburun is completely different from the one used by minibus from Marmaris to Söğüt. Both routes do not intersect with each other at any point at all.

Cunda (Alibeyadasi): Beautiful Greek Village on the Aegean with a Past

My first visit to Cunda, a seaside village also known by some as Alibeyadasi, near the beautiful town of Ayvalik on Turkey's northern Aegean coast, was in the autumn of 2007, and I was smitten by this scenic little town at the very first sight.
 

This village, like its sister-village of Ayvalik, was also a former Greek Orthodox enclave settled by ethnic Greeks until 1923, when the entire Greek population was resettled in Greece under the terms of the Treaty of Lausanne. According to some estimates, during the latter stages of the Greco-Turkish War, when a Greek defeat was imminent, at one point more than half a million Greek refugees fled across the Aegean within one week to the island of Lesvos with the retreating Greek army.

Amos: Scenic Ruins on the Bozburun Peninsula

The name of Amos first came to my notice during one of my cross-border trips from Rhodes to Marmaris by ferry, when I saw this huge poster on the wall of the otherwise boring arrivals hall of the port of Marmaris depicting a very scenic ancient ruin on a headlane overlooking the beautiful Gulf of Marmaris. It turns out this is the promotional campaign by local authorities to attract visitors to Amos, an ancient city founded in the 2nd century BC about 2km from the modern town of Turunc.

The ruins of Amos are on top of a hill overlooking the village of Kumlubuk on one side, and the pictureque bays of the Gulf of Marmaris on the other side. Inside the runis one can find a relatively intact amphitheatre, remains of some ramparts and some temples. 

From Turunc to Amos: One of the Most Photogenic Stretch of Sea in Turkey

A while ago, while I was waiting to clear the Turkish immigration and passport control at Marmaris's cruise port after travelling by catamaran from Rhodes, I saw a large poster on the wall of the harbour terminal, with a caption in Turkish that reads 'Amos: Antik Kent'. As the views of this little-known ancient ruins appear to be very attractive, I decided to take one afternoon off and visit this site from Marmaris.

In order to reach the site of Amos, it is necessary to first take a bus from Marmaris to Turunc, and either walk the 2km between Amos and Turunc, or to wait for the minibus that connects Turunc with the next village, Kumlumbuk. 

Paxos, Act 1: Lakka

On the northern end of the island of Paxos one finds the charming little village of Lakka, tucked away in a scenic bay amid olive grove and lush green countryside. During the summer holiday seasons, many houses in the village are rented out to visitors as holiday homes. If one comes to Paxos from Corfu on a Sunday cruise, one can visit Lakka by joining one of the short bus excursions available from the tour guide on the ferry for a few euros.

Bozburun: Unspectacular Seaside Village with Amazing Seaviews

The name 'Bozburun' first came to my attention a few years ago, when I was reading a Turkish interior design magazine at a upmarket cafe in Antalya. Inside that particular issue was a special report of a beautiful Greek-style stone house with a seaview to die for that has been painstakingly restored by its new owners. The house, which used to belong to a Greek family living in western Anatolia, was abandoned since the population exchange of 1923 and had been left in a state of decay until the new owners came and resurrect the house, bringing it back to its former grandeur.

Ottoman Cafes in Kadikoy: Where to Buy Real Turkish Coffee in Turkey

The small streets of the district of Moda in Kadikoy are the place to go if one is interested in trying out authentic Turkish cuisines and all the other gourment goodies Turkey's gastronomy sector has to offer. For a foodie like me, the al-fresco restaurants, bars and cafes serving real Turkish coffee count among the most important attractions of any visits to Istanbul. Nowadays, instead of staying over at the European side, I prefer to stay on the Asian side so that I could stay out late at one of the many coffee houses located in Moda and have a great time enjoying all the sights and sound Kadikoy has to offer.

Tashan, Erzurum: The Home of the Oltu Stone

In addition to natural mountain honey, another trademark product of the province of Erzurum is the Oltu Tasi (oltu stone), a kind of natural black jet found in the town of Oltu in the province of Erzurum. Also known as the black amber, Oltu stone is a semi-precious gemstone used frequently in the manufacturing of prayer beads and other jewellery.

The unique property of oltu stone is, it is soft when excavated and only begins to harden after coming into contact with the air, which makes it relatively easy to be molded or crafted into the shapes desired.

Colourful Cafes of Antep: Papirus, Bagdat and Beyoglu

Antep not only has a wealth of old monuments, castle and traditional bazaars to count among its numerous attractions; the city, being home to one of the largest universities in southeastern Anatolia, also has a large student population which gives this city a very youthful outlook.

The best way to witness this surge of romantic youthful spirit in Antep is to take a look at one of the many cafes located inside the narrow streets of Antep's Old Quarters, frequently patronised by young people and students of the city. Most of these cafes are housed in grand traditional mansions with an enclosed courtyard behind high walls, which shelters the interior of the garden from public gaze. On a sunny afternoon or in the evenings, the courtyards and the gardens of these cafes are filled with young people, couples and students. While Vienna has its cafes and German university towns have their beerhalls, Antep has its traditional courtyard cafes and it serves to enhance the city's growing reputation as the cultural hub of southeastern Anatolia. 

Erzurum: the Town of Snow and Mountain Honey

I cannot really say why, but I like cities in Turkey with names that start with the letter 'E'. Such as the likes of Elazig, Erzincan, Erzurum etc. That was why I decided to travel onward from Diyarbakir to Erzurum, in spite of the weather warning that temperature in Erzurum could fall to as low as -20 degrees Celsius.

Turunc: Charming Little Place outside of Marmaris

Just 40 minutes away by bus from downtown Marmaris is the resort of Turunc, nestled along a beautiful bay with crystal clear blue waters and lush hills planted with olive grove and pine trees. Although several large hotels are already present in this town, due to the relative distance outside of Marmaris, the town remains by and large much more subdued compared to the resort district of Icmeler right on the outskirt of Marmaris. 

The reason I went to Turunc is because I wanted to visit the ruins of the ancient settlement of Amos. Located about 3km outside of Turunc, it takes approximately 45 to walk to Amos from Turunc. On a nice day it is a very pleasant walk along a slightly winding hillside road which affords some of the most stunning views of the sea around Marmaris. 

Paxos, Act 2: The Harbour Town of Gaios

I like Paxos. It is that kind of small, relatively tourist-free Greek island that makes you feel really comfortable and relaxed. I became smitten with this little island as soon as I set my eyes on the delightful pastel-coloured houses that lined its picturesque little harbour: it feels as though I had just stepped on shore onto one of those serene, rustic and paradise-on-earth kind of little Greek haven, the kind of Greece so often portrayed in novels and films. Sure, I had heard something about the beauty of Paxos before I arrived, but I had not envisaged it to be quite as nice, given that I was always a bit weary about islands which were reputed to be 'out of this world' by some of those run-of-the-mill travel guidebooks.

The unique thing about arriving by boat at Paxos's harbour town, Gaios, is that instead of arriving at a conventional open harbour, the ferry instead has to manevour its way through a very narrow inlet, before arriving at the inner harbour close to the centre of the town. This is because the entrance to the inner harbour of Gaios is separated from the much wider outer harbour by a small natural island by the name of Pontikonisi, which also acts as a natural breakwater to shelter the town of Gaios from heavy storms and waves in winter. It took quite a while before the captain of the ferryboat successfully docked the ferry at the landing pier of the inner harbour.

 

A Beautiful Cafe in Mytilini, Lesvos: Old-World Charm with no Latin Name

This is one of the most beautiful and unforgettable cafes I have ever seen throughout the whole Mediterranean region, but I still do not know its name. Of course this wonderful cafe has a name, but it is written in Greek alphabets only, without Latin transliteration. I stumbled upon this place one evening as I was strolling in the narrow streets of the old quarters of Mytilini, trying to refresh my memories of this amazing port town, which I first visited in the summer of 2007 and immediately fell in love with, and to relive the moments as much as I could. Its elegant columns, large, airy windows, and French doors attracted my attention. As I stood next to the windows admiring the enlarged black-and-white images of old Mytilini, taken during the late 19th and early parts of the 20th century,  a friendly waiter saw me. With a smile, he opened the door and invited me inside to take a better look at the old pictures.

And that was the beginning of my love affair with this cafe.  

Hotel Cavalieri, Corfu Town: Mojito, Venetian Fortress, and the Best Panoramic View of the Old Town

On the way back from Parga and Paxos, the captain who had been to Kaohsiung recommended the rooftop restaurant and bar of Hotel Cavalieri as the place to have a cocktail in the afternoon. At first I was not that interested, until I heard that their terrace bar offers some of the best panoramic views of the Old Town, the Venetian Fortress and the Esplande, I immediately noted down the address.

The next day, I turned up at the hotel and was immediately impressed by this hotel's beautiful front portal and the elegant interiors of its ground floor lobby. This hotel is located in one of the most prestigeous parts of Corfu Town, in front of the Maitand Monument and just a shortwalk from the Liston and the Museum of Asian Art. The friendly lady at the reception who speaks very good English told me their rooftop bar is open only in the late afternoon and the evenings, and I was too early for that. 

Mythos Fish Restaurant, Symi: Nice Place if You Like Fish

Sometimes life on a Greek island can be a little bit hard, if you are not a fan of seafood and do not like the taste and smell of fish or calamari. It is a pity for Illy, because there is a very good fish and seafood restaurant in Symi Town, right next to the scenic harbour, which offers very creative and interesting seafood cuisines. The chef was born in Athens and has worked in different European countries before returning to Greece and decided to settle down on Symi and open this nice little restaurant.

Whenever Illy strolls by Mythos' Fish Restaurant during one of her evening walks around the entire length of Symi's beautiful harbour, there are always a number of people at the outdoor dining section enjoying their seafood dinners against the picturesque backdrop of Symi's photogenic harbour view. After a few days of observation, I went up to the restaurant during their afternoon break, and asked the chef who happened to be outside having a cigarette break if they have anything on the menu suitable for non-fish eaters.